A sales representative from large retail chains, hardware stores, or mass merchandisers is trained to sell a wide range of products, not to provide specialized knowledge or expertise. For any advice regarding which chemicals to add to your pool, always consult with the manufacturer of the product.

What the PH??

Low pH in Plastered Pools (Below 7.6 – Pool is Considered Acidic)

When the pH level in your pool falls below 7.6, the water becomes acidic. Low pH levels will cause the pool water to start eroding your pool’s plaster. This can lead to etching, which will damage the surface of the plaster, and can also corrode liners, ladders, handrails, and pool pumps. If the pH drops below 7.0, the water is highly acidic.

In addition, this acidity can result in a marbling effect on the plaster, which ages your pool prematurely and may make it seem like you need a full replastering after just a few years. Darker-colored plasters tend to show the damaging effects of unbalanced pH levels more visibly than lighter colors.

Furthermore, low pH water significantly reduces the effectiveness of chlorine, which can lead to the buildup of bacteria and algae.

High pH (Above 7.8 – Alkaline)

A pH level above 7.6 indicates that your pool water is more alkaline. High pH levels can cause unwanted chemical reactions, leading to cloudy water, scale buildup, and corrosion of pool surfaces, equipment, and water systems.

Maintaining balanced pH levels is crucial for preserving the integrity of your pool and its components.

Pool Treatment Guidelines

We believe, to the best of our knowledge, that the information provided here is accurate and true as of the date of publication, though it is subject to change without notice. For further clarification, please contact us.

A Step-by-Step Guide to the Chemical Treatment of New PoolCrete Pools

Test the Source Water
Before plastering the pool, take a sample of tap water to a pool shop for testing. This is especially important if borehole water is used.

• pH should not be below 7.4.
• Iron or copper presence: If metals are detected, add a metal remover (see step 4 on Day 3 below). It’s advisable to add metal remover even if no metals are detected.
• Total alkalinity should ideally be 100 ppm. If below this, add an alkalinity increaser (Sodium Bicarbonate) (see step 5 on Day 3). Maintaining correct alkalinity levels helps stabilize pH, preventing fluctuations.
• Calcium hardness should be 250 ppm for start-up. If lower, add calcium chloride (see step 3 on Day 3).

Your local pool shop will recommend products to balance the water quality, but ensure you provide the correct pool volume for accurate prescriptions. Your contractor can provide the volume, but you may wish to verify it by taking a meter reading if filling the pool from a single water source.

Application and Filling the Pool

Day 1:

1. Prime the pool according to the PoolCrete datasheet.

Day 2: 2. Plaster the pool as per PoolCrete instructions.

Day 3: 3. Start filling the pool from the deep end, using a deflector on the hosepipe to prevent surface damage. Fill the pool in one continuous process to avoid water-ring formation. Damp down the exposed PoolCrete every hour to prevent premature drying. Protect the plaster from stains, such as mud splashes, until the pool is filled. Add the required amount of calcium chloride flakes (dissolved in water). Large quantities should be split into 2 or 3 doses and added an hour apart as the pool fills, beginning when the water is about 300mm deep. 4. Add metal remover while filling the pool. 5. Once the pool is filled, add the alkalinity increaser (dissolved in water) in multiple doses if necessary. Check again for metals, total alkalinity, and calcium hardness. Brush the pool with a nylon brush. Vacuum any dust or debris. 6. Start the filter, but avoid using an automatic cleaner for the first 3 weeks. Brush the pool regularly with a nylon brush to remove dust, chemical deposits, and debris. 7. Ensure that the pH remains between 7.6 and 7.8 to assist the curing and hardening of PoolCrete. Do not use acid during the first 3 weeks. 8. During this period, only add small amounts of unstabilized granular or liquid chlorine.

Day 22: 9. After 3 weeks, check the pH and, if necessary, add 25ml of hydrochloric acid per 10,000 liters of pool water (e.g., 100ml for a 40,000-liter pool), dissolved in pool water in a bucket. Add the acid over 6 hours with the filter running. Repeat the process until the pH reads between 7.4 and 7.6. Avoid using sulfuric acid. 10. Balance the water to these parameters:

• Total Alkalinity: 80-125 ppm
• Calcium Hardness: 200-275 ppm
• pH: 7.4-7.6
• Chlorine: 1-3 ppm
• Stabilizer: 40-70 ppm

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for dosing from this point onward.

For Saltwater Chlorinators: a) Turn off the salt chlorine generator before adding salt (1 bag per 20,000 liters of water). Use only good-quality, food-grade, evaporated salt free from additives. Avoid using rock salt. Check the generator’s manual to see if it needs to run during this process. b) Gradually pour the salt around the pool, avoiding clumps. Distribute it evenly to prevent piling up or drifting into skimmers. c) Brush any salt that settles at the bottom to help it dissolve faster. d) Keep the filter running until all the salt dissolves, which can take 18-24 hours for most pools, depending on water temperature and circulation.

After 3 weeks:
The automatic pool cleaner can now be used.